With World Bread Day on the 16th October, it is only appropriate that our monthly column get down with the basics on the staff of life. What happens when good bread goes bad? Is it a case of a bad baker, a worse miller or just an unfortunate situation? We like to think of it as a good opportunity for change.
Few can resist the scent of freshly baked bread, but only a baker would know the tedious balancing of variables involved in producing the perfect loaf (anything from choice of flour right through to the baking and storage processes).
From sunken surfaces to uneven texture, to vertical cracks in the crust; there are just as many potential solutions to deciphering where it all went wrong. Often the process of eliminating or placing fault will involve a return to basics, the bread and butter stuff as it were.
A presumably natural place to start this elimination process is often at the raw material source, the miller. To use an example in case, let us present the problem of over-browning of the crust. A possible cause for this could be too much enzyme activity which would entail obtaining flour with a higher falling number from the miller. However, it could just as easily be due to an oven temperature that is too high, a baking time that is too long or even under-proved dough portions.
Either way, it commonly occurs that the miller gets the blame for any deviations from the expected quality of baked goods. According to Freund (Future of Flour, 2003), in the opinion of experienced millers, this strategy on the part of some bakers does not hold water, for over 90% of all faults in bread making are not attributable to the raw material flour.
Before this column can be accused of unfair bias and writing only from a milling perspective, it is crucial to point out that the express aim of this column is to open the lucrative cooperation channels between our synergistic industries. To rephrase, we remain acutely aware of which side our bread is buttered on.
Freund's opinion may have relevance in a European situation where it is commonly understood (and practiced) that just as there is no uniform method for creating the perfect loaf; there is also no uniform flour for all baked goods. Defining an ideal flour for each individual product is a prerequisite for European best practice baking. Suitability of flour to products and methods is also taken greatly into consideration.
Most mills in Europe carry up to 25 different varieties of flours, catering for the ever-expanding selection of baked goods. Substances such as emulsifiers, oxidising agents, hydrocolloids, amino acids and enzymes are often added to optimize flour for various requirements.
The difference in Europe is that it is done at the milling premises (rather than retroactively in the bakeries). It is widely accepted that the mills have the necessary skills required for even blending with ingredients in such small amounts. Also, products such as malts, enzymes and emulsifiers loose some of their effectiveness if added later.
What hinders this taking place in Southern Africa? I am sure, as Bakers, you are already all too aware of the answers! Large monopolisation of the milling market for many years has given way to an environment whereby bakers choice is limited to the flour made available to them by large milling companies (namely cake flour and bread flour).
The limited technology of smaller mills has in the past eliminated them as contenders in supplying bakers with optimised requirements.
Since deregulation that is all beginning to change and there are now fresh opportunities for smaller milling plants with advanced technological capabilities to produce flour according to your bakery and product specifications. More exciting, the relatively low entry costs and mentorship programmes now on offer in Southern Africa provide bakers with the option of doing it all themselves; taking full control of their supply linkages and maximising output and profit.
Sounds like the best thing since sliced bread, you think? Well, why not get in touch and find out more about how African Micro Mills can assist you to combine your baking business with a profitable, value-add milling venture?
This column will be a regular feature in The Baker and we invite you to send through any queries/comments/concerns you may have in relation to the baking and milling industries in Southern Africa. We will also explore what is happening in the milling industry with direct emphasis placed on its symbiotic relationship to the baking industry.
We look forward to hearing from you and working together to open the communication channels between our industries.
You can get in touch with us at millersgrist@africanmicromills.com
